Air leaking in and out of your home can have a major impact on your utility bill. Blocking the obvious holes can tremendously help reduce your energy costs and save home energy. Sealing and weather stripping around windows and doors is an excellent first step. Now it is time to seek out the not so obvious holes. Read through the items below to expose those hidden air leaks.
Air can leak into the attic. Attic spaces are designed to draw air. In the summer it is needed to reduce heat buildup and in the winter to prevent moisture buildup. The air pulled through the attic should come from outside through vents or openings in the soffit or eave. That air could come from inside your home if there are openings in the ceiling. The air you paid to heat or cool is now conditioning your attic. What a waste of energy!
Add or replace weather strip around ceiling access doors or panels. There should be some type of access to your attic. This access could have gaps or spaces which allow air to pass. Add weather stripping if none exists or check and replace, if necessary, existing weather stripping. The door or panel should fit snuggly in its opening. If weather stripping is falling off or permanently compressed, then it should be replaced. Make sure there are no cracks or openings around the frame. If so, seal or repair gaps.
Seal around frame of whole house fans and weather strip damper. A whole house fan is a large fan placed in the ceiling. When operating, it pulls air through the entire house and exhausts it into the attic. This can save much energy if the air conditioner can stay off. It also helps ventilate the attic. The frame that holds the fan to the ceiling can develop cracks and openings. All gaps should be sealed or repaired.
A damper closes when the fan is off. This damper may not seal properly. Weather stripping along the blades may need replacing. In some cases it may not exist. A bonus tip, make sure the linkage of the damper operates freely and damper opens completely when fan is on. A partially open damper will cause the fan to use more energy if it is a propeller blade fan.
Consider placing a cover over the fan during winter and peak summer. Just remember to remove it when you want to use the fan. Also consider replacing the entire fan if it is old. Whole house fans now are quieter and more energy efficient.
Replace recessed lights. Lights can be recessed into the ceiling or into a soffit. Traditionally, recessed light fixtures have openings to allow the heat from the light bulbs to escape. However, when they are off, air leaks through these same openings. Sealing or covering the fixtures with insulation is a fire hazard. For fixtures recessed into soffits, then the top of the soffit can be sealed and the soffit vented into the house, not into the attic.
Recessed light fixtures can have an IC rating. This means insulation can be placed on and next to the fixture housing. All recessed fixtures penetrating into the attic should be IC rated. However, this is not airtight. Fixtures should be IC rated and airtight rated. All wiring to the fixture should be rated for a minimum temperature of 75 degrees Celsius. This may not be the case in construction prior to 1985. Consider hiring an electrician to do this work. It costs more, but all work will meet local codes.
Seal around flue penetrations. Flues are necessary to exhaust the toxic fumes from gas combustion appliances like the furnace and water heater. Codes require a minimum distance from the side of the flue to combustible materials. In many cases a gap was intentionally left to easily comply with codes. However, air can leak through these openings. A sheet metal collar sealed with heat resistant caulk can be placed around the flue and still meet code. If you do not feel comfortable in doing it yourself, then hire a heating/cooling service company to make the repairs. The little higher cost may be worth it to not unknowingly create a fire hazard.
Seal gaps around ceiling exhaust fans. Similar to the whole house fan discussed above, gaps can develop around any exhaust fan mounted in the ceiling. Seal or repair any cracks or openings. Go into the attic and make sure the damper is operating properly. It should open fully when fan is on and close tight when fan is off. The damper is usually at the outlet opening in the attic. You may need to remove some ductwork. If the damper is corroded, the fan may need replacing.
Seal around fireplace. Air flowing through the fireplace damper is often mentioned as a major source of air leakage. This is a significant energy waste and the damper should be weather stripped or replaced. Also, a lesser known air loss occurs at the point where the fireplace passes up through the ceiling. Seal along the joint between the ceiling and fireplace, eliminating any gap.
Seal around dryer vents. The vent from your dryer should pass through an exterior wall for exhausting outside. Cracks or openings can develop around the vent frame in the wall. Seal or repair any gaps. Make sure the damper operates properly; opens fully when dryer is on and closes completely when the dryer is off.
Seal electrical penetrations in exterior walls. Electrical outlets, electrical switches, phone jacks, and cable connections mounted in exterior walls can allow air to leak through the wall. Inexpensive gaskets can be purchased to seal these openings.
Saving home energy is about finding all of the places that energy is wasted and make necessary fixes. You may notice that gap around the window when cold air blows in or see light gleaming through the gap along your door. These obviously need addressing first. Afterwords, the total job is not done. Try to accomplish the actions mentioned above and you are well on your way to significant savings in home energy.